Ski touring with sea view.
In March 2021, Robin and I sailed to Norway for the first time. We had heard somewhere that you could hike up from the sailboat, and afterwards ski or snowboard back down with a stunning view over the fjord. This intrigued us, so we packed our snowshoes, tossed our boots in the forepeak, and strapped our snowboards to the solar panel because well that was the only space we had left. Like that, we set sail across the North Sea, along the Norwegian coast to Ålesund and the Sunnmøre Alps. What we found there exceeded all our expectations. Majestic fjords and pristine white slopes with ocean view. Incredibly beautiful. In 2024, we returned to this stunning area with our new boat, Mencia, and this time with the support of a bunch of passionate mountain athletes, but most of all a group of wonderfully quirky friends.
The gentle creaking of wooden floorboards wakes me up, followed by a metallic jingle, a click, and then silence. I wobble myself a little deeper into my sleeping bag until the warm aroma of coffee teases my nostrils. I wait for the hissing of the coffee maker to get up. As I slowly rise, I hear the refrigerator opening. I take some clean underwear from the drawer under my bed and half awake sift through the pile of clothes on the floor, looking for the thermal base layer that found its temporary resting place there last night. Scratching my hair, I crawl from our cozy cabin toward the ship’s epicenter. There’s another sleepyhead folding his bedding while an early bird is preparing breakfast in the kitchen. I sit down and gladly take the coffee thermos. Another drowsy head pops out from the front cabin. Fruit, bread, and breakfast cereals are spread across the table. We’re six at the small table, yet there’s no shortage of space. What follows is a next-level morning ritual. It’s almost a dance. It’s our third morning on board, and by now, everyone knows their place without speaking. Within an hour, we’re all packed with boards and boots, ready to go ashore. Prepared for another epic day on the mountain.
A month earlier, Robin and I set sail with our boat Mencia from Antwerp. In early March, we sailed across the North Sea from Den Helder to Stavanger and then further up the Norwegian coast to Ålesund. It was a challenging journey early in the season. So, we were very happy when we spotted the outlines of the Norwegian city on the horizon. Tired but content, we sought a spot in the guest harbor among the beautiful Jugendstil warehouses in the center of Ålesund. Our mountain crew came on board here a few days ago. Their skis and snowboards were carefully secured on deck. The rest of their belongings vanished into the many nooks and crannies of the ship. We allowed our crew to “acclimatize” for one night. The next morning, we cast off. From the cockpit of the boat in the charming city center, it was still hard to comprehend that by the same time the next day, we would be completely surrounded by remote alpine mountains.
It’s a day sailing to our first potential climb. Our crew enthusiastically takes the helm as we navigate our way into the entrance of the Hjørundfjord. On the way we speculate intensely about the conditions for the coming days and, naturally, the snow quality, but for now, the fjord isn’t revealing anything. Occasionally, we catch a glimpse of the dramatic peaks through a thick veil of clouds, but that’s about it. “Is it snowing up there?” We dock in Trandal, a hamlet in the Hjørundfjord that’s only accessible by water. Everyone is on edge, but the weather isn’t improving just yet. Nonetheless, our crew is eager, and as soon as the mooring lines are secured, they put on their hiking shoes to go check out the approach. Shortly after, an enthusiastic group returns to the boat. The topographical map is spread out on the table. What are our options here? We pull up Fatmap and review the latest avalanche update from Varsom. Blåbretinden will be our first ascent.
The Hjørundfjord is about 36 km long and cuts through the Sunnmøre Alps, resulting in a spectacular landscape. As you sail through the fjord, you feel minuscule between those sharp giants lining the water’s edge, as they rise steeply from the water’s surface up to 1,700 meters. We navigated this beautiful fjord for five weeks, climbing a few of the famous Sunnmøre peaks, such as Sylvkallen (1,310 m), Maudekollen (1,021 m), and the iconic Slogen (1,564 m). From the summit of Slogen, Mencia was only a tiny dot in the dark blue waters of the fjord. The steep cliffs and their jagged peaks not only create a breathtaking theatrical backdrop but also comprise an interesting and challenging sailing area. The weather and wind among these high mountains are very variable, some even say unpredictable. The weather was undoubtedly a crucial factor in experiencing the area and something to consider when planning our sailing and skiing trips, both on water and land.
Blåbretinden (1,476 m) was our goal for the day. We get a lift up to the snow line, where an old avalanche blocks the path. Our ascent on foot begins here. Skis on, a last beacon check, and we’re off. Our tour begins with a gentle line among low vegetation. Our leader, Nik, sets a good pace and zigzags upward without issue. When we look back, we have a beautiful view over the fjord, but unfortunately, clouds are slowly creeping in around us. The summit is the first to disappear behind a white curtain. We continue our journey with variable visibility. About 500 vertical meters from the top, we reach the ridge, and between the cloud cover, snippets of the two fjords to our left and right come into view. The terrain is flatter here, but a steep climb still awaits us. It doesn’t seem wise to start the final ascent in poor visibility. We decide to turn around. Just as everyone is ready, we hear a muffled rumble in the distance behind the white curtain. We begin our cautious descent.
As we descend, the cloud cover slowly lifts, and the peak of the impressive Blåbretinden once again towers high above the valley. The source of the low rumble is now clearly visible, distinct markings of a point avalanche on the steep slope just below the summit. Turning back proved to be the right choice. We didn’t get to cool our “summit fever” yet, but we respected the mountain and were now rewarded for it. In the sunny valley, we continued our journey along pristine slopes, all the while enjoying our oceanview. Isn’t that incredible? When we reach the boat, we drape our sweaty gear over the railing and warm up in the gentle spring sun. As our gear dries, a fishing line is quickly thrown out—still need to catch dinner for this evening. The “sea to summit” feeling is complete.
Sailing and skiing, a combination of two sports, both with the same goal: to spend as much time as possible in and on the unique Norwegian landscape. Weather, of course, is a determining factor—not just on the mountain but also on the water. Many departure points are only reachable by water, and conditions must allow for docking or anchoring. Therefore, the tour planning emerges from a collaboration between the skipper and the skiers. The boat is used to eat, sleep, regroup, and, of course, transport us. Sometimes we anchor right by the base of the chosen climb, so we can take everyone to shore with our dinghy. Or we tie up at a small jetty, allowing everyone to jump off easily. During a traverse, we can drop off our mountain goats at the starting point, and a warm boat will be waiting for them at the other side of the route.
When multiple climbs are reachable from one point, we stay put for a night. We go fishing, the cool kids go for a swim, or just relax after an active day. If this isn’t the case, we might sail a bit in the evening—usually not for long, as the various approaches are not too far apart, and even the most remote areas of the fjord are easily accessible by boat. As we sail further through the stunning landscape, the only sound is the rustling of the wind. We move without changing or polluting the landscape. We continue sailing, and as the outline of our wake disappears into the waves, it’s as if we were never there. That’s why touring or splitboarding and sailing are such compatible sports. Low impact, no ski lifts, no resorts—just the wind propelling the ship and your two legs carrying you upward. A sustainable way to enjoy this unique area.
And that’s what we did, to the fullest. The climb up to the snow line sometimes had a very high “type two fun” level, but we went for it and were repeatedly rewarded with the most unforgettable experiences. The views were phenomenal. And after a day of touring in this challenging mountain range, we were immersed in the blissful peace on the water down in the fjord every evening. Crawling inside the boat and being warmed by the cozy glow of the stove allowed our cold bodies to thaw. At the end of each week, we returned to Ålesund with big smiles, tired but satisfied. Here we said our goodbyes, but of course not before plans were made for the next adventure. In 2025, we’ll set sail again with Mencia, heading further north to the region of Senja, Tromsø, Lyngen, and Alta. In northern Norway, well above the Arctic Circle, we will explore the countless islands and peaks that give this area its unique appearance. Again, it’s sail and ski, but this time from snowy beaches to snowy peaks—sounds pretty good, doesn’t it?
